Nili Lotan …. what is not to love?

This is from Vogue Runway

It should come as no surprise that Nili Lotan has a robust and healthy business. The Israeli-born designer has just the right idea of what her customer is looking for. She has a good eye for proportion and trend, yes, but she’s also an innate merchant. Collection appointments with her consist of more than a walkthrough: Models walk casually in full looks around the room for buyers and editors, while Lotan carefully dissects her every piece, all of them spread evenly across racks in groups she puts together to better illustrate her vision.

For spring, Lotan grounded her vision on big and oversized silhouettes; tops in particular, she said, because after years of design experience she knows that her woman will not often “go for big on both the top and bottom.” This came across best in her relaxed but neatly cut tailoring, paired with matching trousers and oversized cotton shirting or over beige sequined skirts and Lotan’s signature slinky floor length silk slips. Self-admittedly a pant designer, Lotan has been leaning more and more into dresses. This season’s novelty in that space came in a lineup of halter dresses and slips, mostly presented in prints, one being leopard and the other featuring chain links. These, together with Lotan’s very luxurious feeling silk knits and silk waistband-less skirts, helped add a layer of specialty to her commercially grounder assortment. Ditto the three pops of color she worked into the offering: An almost burnt orange, rich purple, and military green lifted her lineup and allowed for her seasonal novelty to shine in between her core line and best sellers. The piece that packed the biggest punch in the collection was a khaki leather trench. Light, oversized, and deliciously luxe.

Much has been written already this week about how commercial New York Fashion Week often feels, and as true as that often is, there’s value in designers like Lotan who know exactly how to talk to their audience. “I have a straight connection to my customer because I have retail stores,” she said, and this collection was testament to that. After all, some fashion-philes dream of romantic gowns in whimsical lookbooks or gothic fantasies on ominously lit runways, but others dream of the perfect jacket or a beautiful slip.

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